← Kyron SsangYong Kyron repair manuals →
Autopapyrus · SsangYong Kyron 2.0 XDi (2010)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ssangyong/kyron/rear-brake-pad-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

SsangYong Kyron 2.0 XDi (2010): Rear Brake Pad Replacement

The SsangYong Kyron has rear disc brakes with a single-piston floating caliper. Replacing the pads is straightforward, but it is important to retract the piston correctly and check the condition of the guide pins. Replace the pads every 40,000-60,000 km or when the remaining thickness is less than 2 mm.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours Steps: 26

Parts

2
№PartAlternatives
01 Rear brake pads TRW, Sangsin SA155, Brembo
02 DOT 4 brake fluidfor topping up Castrol React DOT 4, Bosch DOT 4

Tools

9
  • jack
  • lug wrench
  • 13 mm and 17 mm sockets
  • flat-head screwdriver
  • rubber mallet
  • caliper piston compression tool (C-clamp or dedicated tool)
  • torque wrench
  • copper grease
  • WD-40
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

26 steps · 5 phases
Phase 1 PREPARATION 4 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the parking brake, and put it in first gear.
  2. Loosen the rear wheel bolts (do not remove them completely).
  3. Raise the rear axle with a jack and place it on sturdy jack stands.
  4. Remove the rear wheel.
Phase 2 REMOVING THE OLD PADS 5 steps
  1. Inspect the caliper: there are two guide pins, one at the front and one at the rear, and the brake hose is on top.
  2. Remove the lower caliper guide pin with a 13 mm wrench (do NOT touch the upper one, since the caliper pivots upward on it).
  3. Swing the caliper up around the upper pin and secure it with wire to the suspension spring (do not let the caliper's weight hang on the brake hose).
  4. Remove the two old pads from the caliper bracket, the inner and the outer.
  5. Remove the anti-squeal shims (clips) from the slots in the bracket and check them for wear.
Phase 3 PREPARING FOR INSTALLATION 5 steps
  1. Check the brake rotor for wear: groove depth no more than 0.5 mm, runout less than 0.1 mm, minimum thickness 10 mm (for the Kyron).
  2. Clean the caliper bracket with a wire brush to remove rust and old grease.
  3. Apply a thin layer of copper grease to the pad seating surfaces in the bracket (keep it off the friction surface).
  4. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood. The fluid level will rise when the piston is retracted, so if necessary draw off 20-30 ml with a syringe.
  5. Press the caliper piston back into its bore, using a C-clamp against the old pad or a dedicated tool (the piston does NOT rotate, just press it straight in). If the piston will not move, check the parking brake (release the lever completely).
Phase 4 INSTALLING THE NEW PADS 5 steps
  1. Install the anti-squeal shims in the bracket slots (they should be springy and sit tightly).
  2. Place the inner pad in the bracket. The pad's tabs are held in place by the clip.
  3. Place the outer pad in the same way.
  4. Lower the caliper onto the pads and align the hole for the lower guide pin.
  5. Thread in the lower guide pin and tighten it to 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft). If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten it firmly by hand, without jerking.
Phase 5 REASSEMBLY AND CHECK 7 steps
  1. Install the wheel and start the wheel bolts by hand.
  2. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel bolts in a crisscross pattern to 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft).
  3. Repeat the procedure on the other rear wheel (ALWAYS replace pads in pairs on an axle).
  4. Sit in the car WITHOUT starting the engine and press the brake pedal firmly 5-10 times. The pistons will move up to the pads and the pedal will become firm.
  5. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and top up with DOT 4 to the MAX mark if necessary.
  6. Start the engine and check the brake pedal. It should feel firm and springy, with no sinking.
  7. Take a test drive at low speed (up to 30 km/h) and brake gently several times so the new pads bed in against the rotors.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Avoid hard braking for the first 200-300 km so the new pads can bed in
  • If the pedal feels "soft" or sinks after the replacement, there is air in the system and the brakes need to be bled (take it to a repair shop or bleed them yourself)
  • Always replace pads in pairs on the same axle
  • Otherwise the vehicle will pull to one side when braking
How it works · 3D How Car Brakes Work How the part you're working on actually works — in plain English, on a 3D model. Open in 3D →