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Autopapyrus · SsangYong Kyron 2.0 XDi (2010)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ssangyong/kyron/front-brake-rotor-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

SsangYong Kyron 2.0 XDi (2010): Front Brake Rotor Replacement

The front brake rotors on a Kyron with the 2.0 XDi (D20DT) diesel engine should be replaced when they wear below the minimum thickness (usually 22-24 mm for new 280x26 mm rotors) or when they have runout or cracks. The procedure requires removing the caliper and the caliper bracket. The rotor is held on by two Phillips-head screws. Be sure to bleed the brakes after reassembly.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-2 hours Steps: 35

Parts

4
№PartAlternatives
01 Front ventilated brake rotors2 pcs, left and right
02 Front brake padsrecommended to replace at the same time TRW, Brembo
03 Brake cleaner spray CRC Brakleen
04 Copper anti-squeal grease Permatex

Tools

10
  • jack
  • jack stands
  • lug wrench
  • 17 mm and 19 mm sockets
  • ratchet handle
  • torque wrench
  • copper grease
  • DOT 4 brake fluid
  • rubber mallet
  • wire brush
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

35 steps · 5 phases
Phase 1 PREPARATION 4 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on a level, solid surface and set the parking brake.
  2. Loosen the front wheel lug bolts half a turn (do not remove them completely).
  3. Raise the front of the vehicle with the jack and place jack stands under the rocker panels or the frame.
  4. Remove the front wheel completely by removing all the lug bolts.
Phase 2 REMOVING THE CALIPER AND OLD ROTOR 8 steps
  1. Open the hood and find the brake fluid reservoir. Loosen the cap (do not remove it) to relieve pressure.
  2. Remove the two caliper guide bolts from the rear (17 mm socket, tightening torque during assembly 80-100 N·m (59-74 lb-ft)).
  3. Remove the caliper together with the pads and hang it from the suspension spring with a piece of wire. Do NOT let it hang by the brake hose.
  4. Remove the old pads from the caliper and note the position of the anti-squeal shims.
  5. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle (19 mm socket, tightening torque during assembly 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft)).
  6. Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.
  7. Remove the two screws holding the rotor to the hub (Phillips screwdriver or T30 bit; they may be seized, so apply penetrating oil such as WD-40 10 minutes before starting).
  8. Remove the old rotor from the hub. If it is stuck, tap the back side of the rotor edge lightly with a rubber mallet.
Phase 3 PREPARING AND INSTALLING THE NEW ROTOR 5 steps
  1. Clean the hub mounting surface with a wire brush to remove rust and dirt.
  2. Treat the hub with brake cleaner and wipe it dry.
  3. Place the new rotor on the hub and line up the screw holes.
  4. Tighten the two rotor retaining screws in a crisscross pattern (torque 8-12 N·m (6-9 lb-ft); do not overtighten, since the threads are in the hub).
  5. Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove the factory protective coating.
Phase 4 INSTALLING THE CALIPER AND NEW PADS 8 steps
  1. Install the caliper bracket on the steering knuckle and start the two bolts by hand.
  2. Tighten the bracket bolts to 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft) in a crisscross pattern (a torque wrench is mandatory).
  3. Lubricate the caliper guide pins with silicone grease (if the rubber boots are intact).
  4. Push the caliper piston back in, using an old pad and a C-clamp or an adjustable wrench (the piston should end up flush).
  5. Apply a thin layer of copper grease to the metal back of the new pads (NOT to the friction surface).
  6. Install the new pads in the caliper together with the anti-squeal shims (inner pad on the piston side, outer pad on the guide pin side).
  7. Place the caliper onto the bracket and start the two guide bolts by hand.
  8. Tighten the caliper guide bolts to 80-100 N·m (59-74 lb-ft).
Phase 5 REASSEMBLY AND CHECK 10 steps
  1. Install the wheel on the hub and start all the lug bolts by hand.
  2. Lower the vehicle off the jack stands until the tire touches the ground (the weight is still partly on the jack).
  3. Tighten the lug bolts in a crisscross pattern to 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft).
  4. Lower the jack completely.
  5. Repeat the procedure for the other front wheel (brake rotors are replaced in PAIRS).
  6. Sit in the driver's seat and press the brake pedal firmly to the floor several times (5-7 times) so the pistons bring the pads up against the rotors.
  7. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and top up with DOT 4 to the MAX mark if needed.
  8. Close the reservoir cap tightly.
  9. Take a test drive at low speed (up to 30 km/h (19 mph)) and check braking performance.
  10. Avoid hard braking for the first 200-300 km (125-185 miles) while the new pads bed in to the rotors.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • New rotors and pads need a break-in period
  • For the first 300 km (185 miles), avoid emergency braking and long mountain descents
  • If the brake pedal sinks to the floor or feels soft after reassembly, the brake system must be bled (there is air in the lines)
  • The tightening torque of the bracket and caliper bolts is critical for safety, so use a torque wrench
  • If you have no experience working on brake systems, take the vehicle to a repair shop
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