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Autopapyrus · Volvo XC60 2.0 D4 D4204T23 (2019)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/volvo/xc60/glow-plug-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Volvo XC60 2.0 D4 D4204T23 (2019): Glow Plug Replacement

The D4204T23 engine has four glow plugs, one per cylinder, and they are all replaced as one set. The plugs sit in the cylinder head under the intake components, so access is limited. The exact disassembly sequence for this engine is not documented in publicly available service materials, so what follows is a general procedure. Check tightening torques against the manufacturer's specifications.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 2-4 hours Steps: 13

Part

№PartAlternatives
01 Glow plugs for Volvo diesel (Drive-E, 2.0 L), set of 4 (190 hp version) Bosch, Beru, NGK

Tools

9
  • Socket set and ratchet with extensions
  • deep thin-wall socket or special glow plug socket (size to match your plugs)
  • low-range torque wrench (5-25 N·m (4-18 lb-ft))
  • screwdrivers
  • plastic trim clip removers
  • multimeter
  • copper or heat-resistant anti-seize for the threads
  • vacuum cleaner or compressed air
  • clean shop rags
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 4 more. See manuals →

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Check the circuits before starting. If the glow plug indicator is on or there are circuit fault codes, measure the resistance of each removed plug with a multimeter. A good plug reads a fraction of an ohm, and an open circuit means the plug must be replaced. Replace the whole set at once: the remaining plugs are just as worn.
  2. The engine must be completely cold. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Wait 5-10 minutes, because the car has many control modules that need to power down. After the work, the window settings may reset and the radio may lose its stored data.
  3. Remove the decorative engine cover and all plastic shrouds that cover the top of the engine and the air ducts. If the air intake pipe or the intercooler hose is in the way, loosen the clamps and move it aside. Don't lose the clips, as there are a lot of them on this model.
  4. If the plugs are covered by the intake manifold or the fuel rail, disconnect the interfering parts and move them aside. Do not open the high-pressure fuel system (rail, lines, injectors) unless necessary. If disassembly requires disconnecting high-pressure lines, it is better to go to a repair shop.
  5. Cover the open intake ports with a clean rag. Blow out the glow plug wells with compressed air or clean them with a vacuum cleaner so that debris does not fall into the cylinders.
  6. Disconnect the connector or power wire of each glow plug. Take a photo of how the harness is routed. Do not pull on the wire: press the locking tab and remove the connector.
  7. Unscrew the nuts or contact terminals on the tops of the plugs, if present. Unscrew the plugs with a deep thin-wall socket, straight and without tilting. Start with a light breakaway force. If a plug turns hard, spray penetrating oil into the well, wait 15-20 minutes and try again. The plugs are small in diameter, and the fine thread in the aluminum head strips easily.
  8. Compare the new plugs with the old ones for length, thread and contact design. Inspect the removed plugs. A broken-off tip means part of it may have stayed in the cylinder. In that case, do not start the engine, and have it inspected with an endoscope at a repair shop.
  9. Apply a thin layer of heat-resistant grease to the threads, keeping it off the heating element. Thread the plugs in by hand until they stop, then tighten with a torque wrench. The torque for glow plugs of this type is usually in the range of 8-15 N·m (6-11 lb-ft), and the exact value is given in the manufacturer's specifications for your plug. Overtightening strips the threads or breaks the plug.
  10. Reconnect the connectors and terminals, and if needed tighten the contact nuts to a light torque (about 1-3 N·m (9-27 lb-in) per specification). Make sure the wires do not touch hot parts or moving components.
  11. Reinstall everything you removed in reverse order: manifold, air ducts, hoses, shrouds. Tighten the manifold and fuel component fasteners to the manufacturer's specifications. Replace gaskets or seals if they were damaged during disassembly.
  12. Reconnect the battery, turn the ignition on and wait for the glow plug indicator to go out. Start the engine. It should start without smoke or unusual noises. Check the engine control module for fault codes and, if needed, clear them with a diagnostic scanner.
  13. Check the intake tract for leaks: there should be no hissing, no air leaks and no boost pressure fault codes.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The main risk of this job is breaking a plug off in the cylinder head
  • If a plug does not turn, do not apply great force
  • Extracting a broken plug requires special tools and experience, and sometimes removal of the cylinder head
  • If you have no experience with modern diesels, it is better to leave the replacement to a specialist shop
  • Do not open the Common Rail fuel system unless necessary, and keep everything clean