← XC60 Volvo XC60 repair manuals →
Autopapyrus · Volvo XC60 2.0 D4 (2019)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/volvo/xc60/fuel-fired-parking-heater-service/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Volvo XC60 2.0 D4 (2019): Fuel-Fired Parking Heater Service

On the XC60 II with the D4 diesel, the fuel-fired heater is located under the right front wheel arch, and its exhaust exits near the right wheel. Service includes cleaning carbon deposits from the combustion chamber, replacing the glow pin, and testing the dosing pump. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in open sources, so what follows is the general principle for fuel-fired heaters. Verify fasteners and connectors on the vehicle.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 2-4 hours Steps: 12

Parts

5
№PartGenuine part no.
01 Heater glow plug (glow pin)
02 Heater mesh filter or flame screenif worn
03 Heater O-rings and gaskets
04 Fuel and exhaust line clamps and seals
05 Heater fuel dosing pumponly if it fails testing 31274669

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

Tools

10
  • lift or jack with jack stands
  • socket set and Torx set
  • hose clamp pliers
  • multimeter
  • Volvo-capable diagnostic scanner (VIDA or equivalent)
  • brass or copper brush
  • carbon cleaner
  • fuel container
  • gloves
  • safety glasses
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 4 more. See manuals →

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Determine the reason for service: smoky exhaust from under the right wheel arch, unstable combustion, fuel smell, a heater fault message on the display, or failure to start. Read the fault codes with a scanner. They will indicate whether the glow plug, pump, flame sensor, or overheating is to blame.
  2. Switch off the parking heater in the vehicle menu and in the timers. Shut off the engine and let the heater cool for at least 30 minutes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait a few minutes.
  3. Raise the vehicle, secure it on jack stands, and remove the right front wheel. Remove the wheel arch liner and the underbody shield to access the heater.
  4. Inspect the heater from the outside: look for signs of fuel leaks, soot, and cracks on the coolant and exhaust pipes. Photograph the positions of the connectors and hoses before disassembly.
  5. Disconnect the electrical connector. Pinch off or clamp the fuel line, then disconnect it. Place a container underneath. Disconnect the coolant hoses and plug them. The coolant loss is small, but topping up will be needed. Remove the heater from its bracket, taking care not to damage the air intake and exhaust pipes.
  6. Disassemble the combustion unit following the diagram shown on the heater itself. Remove the chamber cover and take out the glow pin. Clean carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and heat exchanger with a brass or copper brush and carbon cleaner. Do not use a steel brush, sharp objects, or abrasives. Blow it out with compressed air.
  7. Inspect the glow pin and the flame screen. Check the pin's resistance with a multimeter; it should be low and stable, with no open circuit. Compare it with a new pin. Carbon buildup, cracks, or deformation mean replacement. Install the new pin without force; do not strike or clamp the ceramic.
  8. Test the fuel dosing pump. Activate it in scanner test mode or by briefly applying power, if that is permitted. It should produce a clear, even rhythm of clicks and deliver fuel in measured doses with no air in the line. Inspect the fuel line for cracks and air leaks. Wash or replace a dirty inlet mesh filter. Replace the pump only if it does not click, delivers fuel unevenly, or leaks.
  9. Check the heater's air intake and exhaust pipes. They must be clear, not clogged with dirt, and free of rust-through. Replace damaged seals and clamps.
  10. Reassemble in reverse order using new O-rings. Torque for the small chamber cover fasteners is usually 3-6 N·m (2.2-4.4 lb-ft), and for the bracket bolts 8-12 N·m (6-9 lb-ft). For this heater, the exact values are given in the manufacturer's specifications. Do not overtighten; the housing is aluminum. Connect the fuel and coolant lines with the standard clamps and reconnect the connector.
  11. Reconnect the battery, top up the coolant to the proper level, and bleed the air from the circuit. Warm the engine to operating temperature and check the level again.
  12. Start the heater using the menu test or the scanner. The first start may take longer while fuel fills the line, and white smoke is possible in the first minutes. Check that there are no fuel leaks, coolant leaks, or exhaust smell. Clear the fault codes and read them again. Then reinstall the wheel arch liner, the underbody shield, and the wheel, torquing the wheel to the specified value, usually about 140 N·m (103 lb-ft).

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The heater runs on diesel fuel and produces hot exhaust gases
  • Work only on a cooled unit, away from sources of ignition
  • Do not run it in a closed garage: the exhaust contains carbon monoxide
  • If you have no experience with fuel and cooling systems, or if the heater keeps throwing errors after cleaning and glow plug replacement, take it to a repair shop
  • It may need a control unit check or scanner adaptation