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Autopapyrus · Kia Ceed (1st generation, ED)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/kia/ceed/rear-control-arm-bushing-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Kia Ceed (1st generation, ED): Rear Control Arm Bushing Replacement

The rear suspension of the first-generation Kia Ceed is an independent multi-link design with bushings pressed tightly into the arm eyes. Typical service life is 80,000-120,000 km. Replacement requires pressing the old bushings out with a hydraulic press. Attempts with a vise or makeshift tools usually end with a broken tool.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 4-6 hours (both sides) Steps: 10

Parts

5
№PartAlternatives
01 Lower lateral arm bushing4 pcs CTR CVKK26
02 Front trailing arm bushing2 pcs CTR CVKH67
03 Inner lower arm bushing2 pcs CTR CVKH128
04 Rear knuckle bushing2 pcs CTR CVKH130
05 Floating bushing2 pcs

Tools

6
  • lift or jack stands
  • wrench and socket set 14-19 mm
  • hydraulic press or bushing remover
  • torque wrench
  • WD-40 or equivalent
  • wire brush
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

10 steps
  1. Raise the rear of the car on a lift or set it on jack stands, then remove the rear wheels.
  2. Remove the inner fender liner. The ABS sensor connector is hidden behind it, so disconnect it.
  3. Remove the bolts that secure the arms to the knuckle and to the subframe (17-19 mm wrenches). The bolts are usually in good condition and don't need replacing, even at 140,000 km, but treat the threads with lubricant before reassembly.
  4. Remove the lateral arms and the trailing arm. An angled wrench attachment makes it easier to reach the rear bolt of the trailing arm.
  5. Press the old bushings out on a hydraulic press. They sit very tightly, and there may be a loud bang when the fit breaks loose. An ordinary vise can't handle it and breaks in half.
  6. Press in the new bushings on the press, keeping the correct orientation (some versions have an alignment mark).
  7. Install the arms on the car and start all the bolts by hand, but do NOT tighten them.
  8. Lower the car onto its wheels (or place a support under the hub that simulates the suspension load in its normal working position).
  9. Tighten all the arm bolts with a torque wrench. Shock absorber-to-knuckle bolt: 140-160 N·m (103-118 lb-ft). Arm-to-subframe and arm-to-knuckle bolts: 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft). Check the manufacturer's specifications for the exact value for each fastener.
  10. After reassembly, be sure to have the rear axle alignment checked and adjusted on an alignment rack.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Tightening the arm bolts with the suspension hanging causes the rubber elements of the bushings to twist and wear out prematurely, so always tighten them under load
  • If you replace only some of the bushings, check the condition of the rest
  • If the car has gone over 100,000 km, it makes more sense to replace the whole set at once
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